Climate change and identity of the wine: case “Amarone”

Foto-1_portaleThe territory of Valpolicella (province of Verona, Veneto region) has become over twenty years one of the most advanced models in the international wine scene. This mainly happens thanks to its most important wine, Amarone. Several elements contribute to this success: improvement of wine growing, technological innovation, controlled management of withering, wise use of wood, and control of the fermentations.
Daniele Accordini, director and oenologist of Cantina Valpolicella Negrar, explains: “Since the late ’80s, when in Valpolicella the first effects of climate change have been recorded, with consequent rise in temperature along with such other variables as lower relative humidity in the air, this change of climate have had a significant effect on the style of the wines of this area. This has controlled the imbalances of excessive coldness and tannicity in wines, making them softer, more elegant, mature, and above all modern“.
This is a true oenological change, which favourably occurred for Amarone wine, alongside with the climate change announced by Accordini and revealed at Vinitaly 2015 (Veronafiere, March 22nd to 25th) through a sensory tasting route concerning five vintages – from 1997 to 2008 – of one of the best cru of the cooperative winery, Amarone DOC Classico Vigneti di Jago. Accordini explained: “While maintaining the same drying and vinification technique, from typically exile wine, characterized by elegant structure, we have moved on a thicker and more vigorous wine, with phenolic framework characterized by more mature tannins. In general, we recorded an increase in sugar level in grapes, accompanied by good performance of acid, greater aromatic complexity, and higher values ​​of colouring substances. Therefore, it is easy to think that in Valpolicella such main autochthonous native grapes as Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella have adapted themselves very well to the new climatic conditions. We think that this is a result of natural events, which transformed Amarone from local style to territorial expressions of international character“.

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